We took a lot of pictures today.
First we went to the market at Piazza della Repubblica in which stands the largest open air market in Europe. Outside were stalls of produce and clothing and household items and then separate buildings housed the seafood and the meat and cheese stalls.
two chunks, please
and a bagna cauda
and a bagna cauda
salum(eria)
I would weigh 400 pounds if I lived in Italy
Outside were row after row after row of produce stalls. The veggies were proudly displayed and for a moment I considered cooking in the apartment but then I came to my senses.
why can't I get tomatoes like this in Amsterdam...
... or zucchini flowers...
...or red treviso...
...or a 2 foot high bunch of broccoli?
The seafood was not as impressive as the meat and cheese hall - we are in Piemonte! We got panini for a snack and ate them standing in the sun, which was shining today for a change although it was so cold that all it provided was light. Ken got an anchovy and pepper and I got a spinach omelet. They were pressed and hot and hit the spot on this cold day.
life wouldn't be as salty without the anchovy
All the guide books for Torino list Caffe al Bicerin as not only serving the best bicerin but also claim to have invented it. It was in a small piazza just opposite the beautiful Santuario Basilica la Consolata. Al Bicerin had a full house so we went into the basilica for a bit. It had an elaborate interior and there was a service just ending. When we left and went into the caffe, there was one table available and we snatched it.
behind the counter at Al Bicerin
There were two women running the place, filled with locals and tourists. It was a small place with only about 8 tables and I was sitting in the line of fire where the waitress squeezed by carrying trays of drinks. We ordered two bicerin from the very friendly waitress and soon after they arrived. The chocolate was thick and rich and the kick of espresso gave it a depth that took the concept of mocha to a whole other level. I wish I could have one every day.
bello
In a caffeine high we walked to the Museo D'Arte Orientale, Museum of Asian Art. It is housed in a beautiful old palazzo and each floor is dedicated to a different region of Asia - South East and India, Japan, China, Himalaya, and Middle East. We wanted to skip China and when we bypassed the room the guard on duty came to us and told us in Italian we were walking the museum tour in the wrong direction. She kept an eye on us the rest of the visit to that floor!
my, what a big sword you have
We took other pictures but none of them were exposed well. I made the exception to post that one, however. After the museum we walked around the center and here are some random shots of the streets...
cafe
neon
In the center, a sit down restaurant was hard to come by for some reason. We found a place open called Rosso Pomodoro and went in because we sort of like pizza. Looking at the menu, I learned it was a chain founded in Naples but because this is Italy, this was no T.G.I. Friday's. We got a table by the window and had to wait a bit for our food to arrive. The pizza is Napolitano style which is a thin in the middle, a little watery from the mozzarella di bufala, with a fresh tart tomato sauce, and a puffed chewy edge. We both got the San Marzano, essentially a margherita. It was delicious.
cafe
neon
one of the light installations, arguably better seen at night
a typical archway
Because we had a clear blue sky, today was our chance to see the panorama of the city and Alps. We had a plan to go to the Basilica di Superga which is reachable by an historical tourist train up to a hill overlooking the city. First order, however, was lunch because it was 1:30.In the center, a sit down restaurant was hard to come by for some reason. We found a place open called Rosso Pomodoro and went in because we sort of like pizza. Looking at the menu, I learned it was a chain founded in Naples but because this is Italy, this was no T.G.I. Friday's. We got a table by the window and had to wait a bit for our food to arrive. The pizza is Napolitano style which is a thin in the middle, a little watery from the mozzarella di bufala, with a fresh tart tomato sauce, and a puffed chewy edge. We both got the San Marzano, essentially a margherita. It was delicious.
now that's what we're talking about
I won't be smiling when I weigh myself next week
After lunch, it was off to the Basilica di Superga by first a bus to the Sassi/Superga station and then to a rack rail train to the top of the hill where it stands. We arrived 10 minutes before the 3:00 train but we were denied tickets and told we had to take the next train at 4:00 but tickets wouldn't go on sale until the 3:00 left the station. We were bummed out we had to wait around thus losing precious daylight. We putzed around the station and sat outside in the sun when we saw a station agent running around with a walkie talkie like a headless chicken. We were closest sitting to him and he said there was a problem with the train and there would be no more running for the day. We had to abandon the mission.
So we got back on the bus to the center and sat in the back. A few stops later, a group of teenage boys made it to back with us. They must have been no older than 16, posturing and pimply faced. As the bus continued its route, it picked up more kids and they all knew each other. They were behaving like regular teenage boys, laughing, playing music out of their phones, giving each other a hard time. Then something remarkable happened - well, remarkable as an observing American. An old lady was trying to validate her ticket and there was a problem with the machine and it wasn't stamping. So one of the guys, who was using a crutch, left the group and went over to her and tried to help her. After, she sat down and he stood over her and continued to talk to her until he got off the bus. As a New Yorker, I have never seen a teenage boy act in this way, especially around his peers, and watching this really stuck with me.
So we got back on the bus to the center and sat in the back. A few stops later, a group of teenage boys made it to back with us. They must have been no older than 16, posturing and pimply faced. As the bus continued its route, it picked up more kids and they all knew each other. They were behaving like regular teenage boys, laughing, playing music out of their phones, giving each other a hard time. Then something remarkable happened - well, remarkable as an observing American. An old lady was trying to validate her ticket and there was a problem with the machine and it wasn't stamping. So one of the guys, who was using a crutch, left the group and went over to her and tried to help her. After, she sat down and he stood over her and continued to talk to her until he got off the bus. As a New Yorker, I have never seen a teenage boy act in this way, especially around his peers, and watching this really stuck with me.
Seeing a vista of the city with the Alps was very important to us. We had bad weather for visibility until today and we didn't know what the weather would bring tomorrow. We were on a mission. So we got off the bus near the Mole Antonelliana because there is a panoramic view from the top and we should be able to catch the last light of day over the Alps. This building is the symbol of Torino and it dominates the skyline. It houses the National Cinema Museum which of course we also wanted to see. When we arrived, the line was around the block. I felt discouraged and defeated to get the view today, but not Ken. He still had a bit of energy left to go back to the Monte dei Cappuccini and thankfully, encouraged me to push on because when we got to the top of the hill, it was completely worth it. The beauty of the city and the Alpine chain in the distance was stunning.
It was a magnificent panorama. It was also below freezing but it didn't matter. We were not the only people there and taking pictures.
Just at the lookout site is also the Museo Nazionale della Montagna which was open. It was an interesting museum about Alpine life, mountain cultures, famous Torinese mountaineers, and the history of skiing. The highlight for us was the panoramic terrace. It situates you just above the treeline which got in the way of photographs from the public viewing site. It was spectacular, I can't come up with a better word to describe the view. In the time it took to get into the museum and reach the terrace, the sun had already set.
By the time we left, it was completely dark. A light installation part of the Luce d'Artista that hung at the church was now illuminated. There were lots of photographers with tripods taking photos of it.
the view we've been waiting for
the remains of the day
the remains of the day
It was a magnificent panorama. It was also below freezing but it didn't matter. We were not the only people there and taking pictures.
Jen and the Alps
Ken and the Alps
the Alps
Ken and the Alps
the Alps
Just at the lookout site is also the Museo Nazionale della Montagna which was open. It was an interesting museum about Alpine life, mountain cultures, famous Torinese mountaineers, and the history of skiing. The highlight for us was the panoramic terrace. It situates you just above the treeline which got in the way of photographs from the public viewing site. It was spectacular, I can't come up with a better word to describe the view. In the time it took to get into the museum and reach the terrace, the sun had already set.
yes, its the same angle as above but now it is night
must...take...more...pictures!
happy with a new, warm hat
By the time we left, it was completely dark. A light installation part of the Luce d'Artista that hung at the church was now illuminated. There were lots of photographers with tripods taking photos of it.
this one is called "small blue spirits"
We took the bus home and only rested for a bit because we wanted to catch aperitivo early at our local wine bar, Area Cafe. It has a very warm atmosphere as opposed to the standard flourescent lit bar/cafes. There are candles at the tables, dim lighting, dark wood, vaulted ceiling and brick walls.
I ordered us a bottle of wine that was really incredible. It was an organically grown Nebbiolo D'Alba from producer Portinale at €20. For an additional €6 for both of us, we had free grazing rights at the aperitivo tables. We kinda pigged out. There was a huge selection: baked fennel, sauteed zucchini, eggplant caponata, sliced cheeses, boiled eggs, cured meats, sausage, rice, pasta with vegetables, sauerkraut (common in Alpine Italy), a wheel of Grana Padano cheese, tramezzini with tuna, baked carrots with leeks, polenta squares...
The museum is a wacky place. It is about 5 levels high and each floor showcases a different aspect of cinema. The entire first floor is dedicated to early film making and moving pictures. The next floor takes you through what feels like mini movie sets with loads of props and a screen in each showing different scenes from commonly themed movies. Unfortunately, they were all in Italian without subtitles and if they were English speaking films they were dubbed into Italian. Regardless, it was entertaining.
Then another floor was about behind the scenes of film making with special effects, editing, and sound. Some exhinits were interative like a bicycle you could pedal and via green screen you were transported into a scene of your choice: E.T. and the flying bicycles, hot air ballooning in Around the World in 80 Days, or on a land speeder from The Empire Strikes Back. On the top floor was a gallery of movie posters of classics from all over the world. In the main hall is a space filled with lounge chairs and two screens showing different movie clips.
The chairs are reclined and the track from the film clips comes out of speakers on either side of your head. It was too dangerous for us to lie down for long because we would have fallen asleep - like some of the other people there. We stayed till closing and took a bus home.
aperitivo!
I ordered us a bottle of wine that was really incredible. It was an organically grown Nebbiolo D'Alba from producer Portinale at €20. For an additional €6 for both of us, we had free grazing rights at the aperitivo tables. We kinda pigged out. There was a huge selection: baked fennel, sauteed zucchini, eggplant caponata, sliced cheeses, boiled eggs, cured meats, sausage, rice, pasta with vegetables, sauerkraut (common in Alpine Italy), a wheel of Grana Padano cheese, tramezzini with tuna, baked carrots with leeks, polenta squares...
plate 1 of 3
a cozy seat by the radiator
that was one good Nebbiolo D'Alba
We spent a couple of hours there and at that point the night was still young at 8:30! We decided to go back to the Mole Antonelliana and the Museo Nazionale del Cinema, the National Cinema Museum. It was open until 11. First we waited for the panoramic lift that takes you up the spire of the building but the line was too long and we wanted to see the museum so we bagged the lift.
a bad picture, but that is the lift going up to a hole in top of the dome
The museum is a wacky place. It is about 5 levels high and each floor showcases a different aspect of cinema. The entire first floor is dedicated to early film making and moving pictures. The next floor takes you through what feels like mini movie sets with loads of props and a screen in each showing different scenes from commonly themed movies. Unfortunately, they were all in Italian without subtitles and if they were English speaking films they were dubbed into Italian. Regardless, it was entertaining.
"...pre-production head mask...made from the original mold
used in the film..." Yes, I am...I mean was a Star Wars geek
used in the film..." Yes, I am...I mean was a Star Wars geek
cute, but not a character I associate with the cinema
Then another floor was about behind the scenes of film making with special effects, editing, and sound. Some exhinits were interative like a bicycle you could pedal and via green screen you were transported into a scene of your choice: E.T. and the flying bicycles, hot air ballooning in Around the World in 80 Days, or on a land speeder from The Empire Strikes Back. On the top floor was a gallery of movie posters of classics from all over the world. In the main hall is a space filled with lounge chairs and two screens showing different movie clips.
the audience hall
The chairs are reclined and the track from the film clips comes out of speakers on either side of your head. It was too dangerous for us to lie down for long because we would have fallen asleep - like some of the other people there. We stayed till closing and took a bus home.
home for the night