The flight from Amsterdam was only 90 minutes. At the airport we bought the Torino 7-day card which gives us free entrance to tons of sights and museums and covers trams and bus transportation. It was totally worth getting and it definitely paid for itself.
totally worth it
We took a 40 minute bus to the central train station, Porto Nuova. We walked about 10 minutes to the apartment we rented for the week on Via Principe Tommaso. The owner was outside waiting for us and took us upstairs to the top floor studio and good thing there was an elevator because I do not pack light.
newly renovated kitchen that I will not be using
fold out sofa bad, lumpy but comfy
The studio was recently renovated and we were just the second vacation renters. The total cost for the week was 300€ + a small cleaning fee. There were wood beams in the ceiling and when you stuck your head out the window and looked left, you could see the majestic Alps.
first time not seeing the Alps from a plane
it looks a lot like Italy from here
The first thing we did was go to the local supermarket for basics like coffee, yogurt, and milk. We found an organic market and got some other staples. In the small piazza was a beautiful synagogue with 24 hour military surveillance.
We walked around the neighborhood and got our bearings and an idea of what kinds of shops and restaurants were within close walking distance from the apartment. We also got the feel of the neighborhood. Because it isn't far from the main train station, there are a lot of hotels. There were a few seedy streets but we did not feel unsafe.
built in 1884
destroyed in 1942, reconstructed in 1949
Primo Levi, author and a son of Torino
We walked around the neighborhood and got our bearings and an idea of what kinds of shops and restaurants were within close walking distance from the apartment. We also got the feel of the neighborhood. Because it isn't far from the main train station, there are a lot of hotels. There were a few seedy streets but we did not feel unsafe.
lots of hotels in the 'hood
our last day of sunlight for 5 days
typical Torinese street
After a rest we went to the Teatro Regio to meet my friend, Emanuela. I met her in Dutch class in Amsterdam in 2006 and she eventually moved back to her hometown, Torino. She gave us a welcome bag with loads of tourist information and a bottle of Bicerin liqueur, named after a special Torinese drink of hot chocolate, espresso, and cream.
tasty welcome gift - grazie, Emanuela!
She took us for a walk around the heart of the city and showed us the main piazzas and shopping streets. Best of all is the the winter treat of the Luci D'Artista, light installations around the city by contemporary Italian artists. There are about 12 sights in total. There will be photos of them later!
She took us to a northern Italian ritual called aperitivo. We went to a bar/cafe called Caffe Bodoni and ordered drinks. She recommended the classic negroni (gin, vermouth, Campari) and a spritz (proseco, Aperol, soda), both made with bitter Italian liquors. Complimentary with the drink is a small buffet for grazing. We picked through it and got small finger sandwiches. Emanuela was off to dinner with friends and we walked with her to her car and there was a pizzeria she recommended right on the block so we said goodbye and went to pizzeria La Nuova Lampara. The interior design was sleek and modern and the menu was fantastic! The staff was friendly and English speaking. We ordered fried artichoke hearts with balsamic glaze and pizzas.
I got the Napoletano (anchovies, oregano, garlic) and Ken the Cipolle (onions). These would be our respective pizza themes for the week. With blazing hot pepperoncino on the side and house wine, it couldn't get any better.
patiently waiting for the artichoke hearts
worth the wait
I got the Napoletano (anchovies, oregano, garlic) and Ken the Cipolle (onions). These would be our respective pizza themes for the week. With blazing hot pepperoncino on the side and house wine, it couldn't get any better.
patiently awaiting the pizzas
definitely worth the wait
although they really didn't take long at all
We walked home to our part of town and stopped at a local wine bar for an incredible glass of Barbera D'Alba, another Piemontese varietal from the village of D'Alba only about an hour away. It is also known for Dolcetto D'Alba. The town of Asti is also close to Torino and you may have heard of Asti Spumante, which has a bad rap in the USA but is actually a very elegant, sweet bubbly. This wine bar had an amazing aperitivo spread that we were too stuffed to try but we said we would come back sometime during the week.